The Freelanced Blackwolf Mountain Line (Equipment/Layout Progress)

DragonFyreGT Apr 10, 2017

  1. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

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    Nice looking F unit's
     
  2. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Okay so this update sadly isn't on my F-Units. I ordered a set of 146 Kadees, but they aren't here yet. The Nathan M3RT1 Horns are but sadly i didn't have the right size bit for my pin vise. So I took a trip to the local hardware store, bought one of Dremels micro drill bit packs and the size bit I need to make the hole large enough for the horns....I don't have te right size collet in my pin vise. Sigh. Oh and to make that diaphragm drama worse.... the front of the F9B needs somefiling work done below the doorway on the MbE doorway part. Filing down brass by hand to get it right, joy. Oh well.

    But today's updte is on Blackwolf Mountain 4349, an ex-BNSF (Athearn Bluebox LImited Edition transition between BB and RTR) 9-44CW. The first of my big bomber sets is getting some treatment as a test bed. Every railroad has a trademark, something on their units that only they do. Mine is no exception. I bought a Details West 130 EMD/GE Second Generation Pilot Plow. This is going on the rear of all my road units. Boy was this actually fun to install. I had the right pin vise bit for DW's pegs. Everything went smooth. Lined it up on an angle flush with the bottom and than pushed the peg out of the way with the bit. Well I had to redrill the hole higher on the right, but hey you can't see the misdrill and it turned out okay. Clearing everyting on the tracks too. Going to see about installing the Hi-Tech MU Hose cluster next, than the ditch lights, MU Cables, Trainline Hoses, spare knuckle basket, Cut Levers, and Fuel Line covers (These 3 big bombers are split 2 and1 by a fuel tender tank car). But it did turn out pretty good and I'm not dis satisfied with the part chosen for this. Enjoy.
    [​IMG]

    I really won't have much more to do this month, post wise until my Kadees show up. Their set of 58's will be donated to a gondola and my rapido caboose when I put the 146's in. And once the filing work is done on the B-Unit, all will line up and lay down correctly so I'm not worried at this point. Enjoy the rest of winter. I'm going to go huddle by the industrial heater in the Evergreen Engine Shop now.

    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Opertor
     
  3. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    So this month is finally upon us. And it's a bit of a tale of twists turns and general ARGH ala Charlie Brown. A long time ago I decided my F-Units would wear something that wasn't so common even for canada. I decided that I would end up on the CN/Via Rail Wide Winterization Hatches. Those covered the back 2 fans and the back exhaust stack with a pass through. When Jason over at Rapido released his FP9's with those hatches, I fell in love with the look. But the problem became getting my hands on the hatches. as repair parts it woul be too expensive and anyone selling the full sets were immediately sold out it seemed. There was one other company that made it and it was Custom FInishes. Yeah Good luck finding them. Except Bowser Trains had them. Well the purchase fell through because of an issue with my paypal account. It happens no ill will on a fine company such as theirs (Seriously this was a glitch on my side of things.)

    So my g/f ended up finding them at a Canadian distrabution site and I was able to claim the last two in stock. This is, however, going to change up some things. Starting with the cooling pipes on the roof, I will have to cut them down to half size and butt them up against the hatches because there is no pass through for the pipes. That's okay. The 4 grills on the top of the hatches are not there, it's smooth brass. I also have to add the rear flat lift rings to them both and the side grills are molded like a vent and not worth the hassle to cut into to put a real screen in there. Finalyl there is a bright spot in the form of money savings. The back two fans will have ot be cut out completely and since there's no pass through screens (In fact the exhaust pass through is hollow), I will be taking hte fans out so the part will lay flat prior to gluing. That means instead of 2 packs of Cannon and Company 36" button top fans (over 36 bucks) I will only need 1. 2 fans for the fronts of each unit. Overall I am happy with this. No it's not the rapido uber detailed ones, but the look is there, the feel is there and as long as I'm happy with my girls wearing them, thats all that matters. So until I can get things going, here's a test fit shot along with the Kadees (146 rear, 158 front, gap closed and you won't notice a thing):
    [​IMG]

    Okay now onto what I've got coming up. Today I was watching James May (of Top Gear Acclaim)'s show "The Reassembler" and I was watching him ressemble and repair his original Hornby Flying Scotsman train. That got me thinking about doing the same. In a sense. I'm currently bidding on a double brass flywheel Kato/Stewart F-Unit motor, and next month grabbing a set of brand new spline shafts and power trucks (also Kato/Stewart) for my F9B. Unlike the blue box ahtearn trains, these parts have clips on the ends of their wires that can be cut, stripped and soldered to an ESU Loksound Direct board. This will make repowering my dummy B Unit a lot cheaper than trying to buy a new locomotive, jack the chassis and wonder if it really has the dcc ready board. It's easy enough that I'm confident in this endevour.

    Next comes hte rooftop cooling coils from Cal Scale for it's modification work and Juneco has some F-Unit style number boards that are molded with a hollow center. I'm going to put an SMD behin them both, use Micromark Kristal Klear to make a lens and then use SHell Scale's number board decals deisgned to be lit. Now that I can find SMD's prewired with capaciters on board, I can pull one capacitor and wire them in series using Warm Whites. Still don't know how to drill out my classification lights at the present time and won't worry about that yet.

    This will leave the last rare part of my build, the Cab interior, either keystone or GSB. Athearns is nice, the Genesis one with the hole pass through for wires, but lacks in detail. Go with what works for your needs, right? Well I'll leave the post here for now until my motor is one and in my hands for one more shot. Getting closer to the paint portion where I'll need to get decals and what not made and start finding the right person to finish the work. But for now just a few more things to do and parts to gather. (And my goodness Rapido's paint is pricey but epic, I looked at some Amtrak Heritage Blue samples from them, it's quite lovely.)

    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  4. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Motors on it's way, I'll pickup the remaining componants for the F9B next month. I just picked up the screws or close facsimilieso fi t at hte local hardware store. I also finished filing the injection nub off the back of the hatches and got it nice and smooth. I also discovered while filing the rear exhaust stacks down that like the Highliner Shells, Stewart sold F3/F7/F9's in a similar fashion, only the Dynamic Brake section and Fan sections came apart. This is actually great news. I can than drill and file a hole in the back 2 sections and when I open up the hole in the front sections, I can put the fan blades, housing and whatnot in place and than glue everything down. This is going to make my life a little bit easier with the rooftop modifications, barring that my idea won't fully pan out, but Ill figure it out as I go along. For now here's the final mockup photo before roof sugery begins this spring:
    [​IMG]

    gettin closer I'm getting uber excited now. Should have hte motor here and installed around the 20th So until than or barring anything else that gets done ahead of schedule.

    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  5. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Have been there, done this, many times. :)
     
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  6. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    No kidding. I was doing some research on my Athearn Bluebox Gray Ghost Dash 9 and it seems that I've hit a can of worms. So far the only thing that seems to be viable is to do a Mashima Can Motor swap from A-Line/PPW (75 Holy Smeg o_O). THan comes the weird part of the whole athearn thing. The coupler pockets are frame mounted, the frame is Metal but it has plastic fuel tank sides, the ends are coated in this weird substance that makes it feel like plastic (Going to assume that I won't have issues with kadees and that this coating is an insulating coating), plastic side frames on the trucks, and not a lick of information on this unit anywhere.

    Well this is going to be fun since I haven't seen any photos of ESU Loksounds wired up to blue box units other than knowing it has been done. Still the shell was molded with room for the speaker under the radiator grill. I think this may indeed be the transition rom old BB to Horizon Hobby RTR as the Real LIfe Gray Ghost entered BNSF Service in 1997. So I will assume this model is somewhere late 90s early 2000s putting it 3rd generation (Not sure entirely). Still it's using the old clip system so here we go with the DCC Drama which will be dealt with far down the road. That's why I dislike bluebox units. Oh and my custom painted executive GP35 and dummy GP60B.....Blue Box. The 35 has wires run to a decoder already with lighting when I Bought it (going to have an ESU put in with speakers and cannon fans by a professional later, same with the GP60B after it gets repowered). Never again will I touch a Blue Box Locomotive after this. Shake the box kits for rolling stock is fine by me, but the locomotive experience? Bleh.

    Just when you think something is going to work it never goes as planned for sure. Still she's my lead big bomber and she must be brought up to electronic speed. And speaking of which, the Kato Motor will be here on Tuesday and I just picked up screws for the chassis to mount it. And HOPEFULLY I'll start getting the rest of my missing freight cars. Which brings me to a subject I've long been ignoring.... my MOW Fleet.

    My BN Walthers MOW heavyweights and Athearn BB MOW Heavyweight baggage are going to get a yellow diagonal stripe at one end of the coach, MOW Gray stencils (Still bearing their existing numbers with an X-), yellow hubs on the wheel axles and will go from BN to Blackwolf Mountain. I have the cars, I figured why not repurpose them. I also need an MOW Flat car for the BN Walthers Crane (The original not the new proto). I clipped the motor wires on this becuase the motors were sluggish and terrible. THe Proto cranes have better motors now. Still this will get a red box over the BN Logo (the crane is yellow) with a gray stencil for BWM. So there's my Tender FLatcar and Crane. I also need a ballast Hopper, and I might make said crane be a caboose type flat car, I'm not sure atm.

    Oh and if I can get a coupler lid cover part for my intermountain flatcar with it's log bunks, I'm going to be adding a Tichy Train Group Bulkhead end and turn it into a bulkhead car wit ha little beaver sitting on the logs. Nice idea for a hitchhiker heh. In the meanwhile, back to waiting for the motors and my opes that the Gray Ghost (Yeah she's keeping that nickname, infact I may actualy make her ex-BNSF for the smeg oit, may aswell since I'm using the BNSF Details West modeling guide) is the majority of my problems. No other manufacturers analog unit wiring was this insane. Just Athearns. Oy.

    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  7. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Procastination is a powerful thing. Especially when I realized I posted to a photo rather than this thread. Whoops. So I haven't gone completely MIA this month. An oppourtunity arose for my birthday to grab myself a new airsoft rifle for a project. But I didn't leave the modeling in the dust. I also grabbed a pair of F-Unit number boards from Juneco from a canadian site. The nice thing about these number boards is unlike Cal Scale where there is really no way to light them without serious surgery to the brass part, these are molded with 2 tabs to positioning (each board lost a tab during shipping sadly) and have hteir number boards open for lighting, lens and decals to be lit. I also accidently bent one inwards during the glue phase by mistake, but unless you run your finger over it, it's not really noticeable. I think it turned out great and unlike the stock stewart plastic with the black inserts, I think this stands out much better
    [​IMG]

    So now onto last months blunder. I rigged up the motor I bought and it worked great. I just need the universal joints and kato trucks. I'm going to straight wire this to an ESU Loksound Direct 4.0 with a Tsunami Soundtraxx speaker in the rear. I may get a stock control board, analog style or otherwise just to test it on the layout. For the same money it's easier to buy the componants than to end up with a spare shell that most likely will never get used nor sold. So I don't mind. Anyways here it is installed on the chassis:
    [​IMG]

    So off track really quick, my airsoft rifle project came with 2 busted magazines so to do proper breakin I am picking a new one up next month, but I'm also grabbing my rooftop cooling coils for the F-Units. Than it's a waiting game to get my cannon exhaust fans so we can start putting the roof details together. I do need some flat aluminum paint from testors for the fan blades. And because my winterization hatches are missing the grills that Rapido's has, I'm going to use one pack of fans for both the front fans on both units while leaving the rears empty with just a hole (for fitment purposes. I'm also going to attempt to cut a pass through for the cooling coils, but I need a set of brass snips for that. The plan for that is to lay the hatch next to the pipes and use a sharpie or something to draw lines for cut out purposes. Now being that I can't get these hatches anywhere, this is going to be a simple measure twice cut once attempt.

    Oh and I'm still filing down the back of my F7B's front doorway so the diaphragm kit waits to be installed for the final time. And I need to get a set of 450 close coupling brackets and 158's (so the front has a coupler). My Medium to Long trick worked perfectly and my girls are coupled nicely so you won't notice that with the lower details in the wy. I know there's a long way to go but that moment where you can see the light at the end of the tunnel. Once the electroncis are installed and the shells are painted I can get the findal details installed that have to be different colors. I think part of me procrastinates so that this takes longer so I can enjoy the ride a bit more......or the fact that I'm running around the depths of the internet to find parts. Oh well.

    I'll have more photos next month when I get the coils and get them installed (I have glue parts from the old ones so it's a handy drilling template).

    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  8. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    I agree about the effect of those new number boards. :)
     
  9. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

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    Those #boards do make a Difference.
     
  10. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Okay here we go again this month. Because you just can't seem to have anything stay on the rails right? So a popular seller on our favorite auction site has a real website. Last name has a z and we'll leave it at that. Had my cooling coils and my twin headlight housings. 15 bucks good deal. Until they force FedEx shipping on you. Uh Yeah No thank you, not going to pay around 26 dollars for 3 sets of parts. So I got one cooling coil set from a seller on eBay and 2 Cal Scale Dual Headlight housings for waaaaay less shipped. They're on their way but that does leave my B unit without the rooftop coils but for now it's a waiting game anyways for parts.

    So the plan is to gt the rooftop coils installed on my A-Unit, mark a template for cutting a pass through on my hatches, get those cut, and get my housings installed. I have the ditchlights from Miniatures By Eric but I can't install them til I get the lift rings installed which is in a Cal Scale Kit for F-Units I'm tracking down (has all my lift rings, roof, front, rear, grab irons wipers, etc). I might have to swap focus back on the Dash 0 and actually get parts ordered! What did I say last month, something about procrastination? But anyways.

    I'm glad everyone liked the Number Boards. It really made that unit pop. I'm hoping the headlight housings will do the same. The more I Kept looking at that photo the more I kept thinking to myself, "You know if those housings, and class ights and grab irons and lift rings and ditch lights were there....' Getting there. Slowly. Hopefully not as slow for now. Also B-Unit has rear diaphragm, just need the 450 brackets now. Photos when parts arrive and are installed like always.

    Enjoy your wet cold soggy April.
    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
  11. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Snowed here yesterday. Snowed again this morning. (Is it February or April? Or maybe this is Apriluary?) Snow is in the forecast through the week. This is where a nice, warm indoor hobby pays off! (y)
     
  12. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Micro Update, I ordered the wrong headlight parts and returned them for a refund. I found a set of Overand Brass and just ordered those at the time of this post. Rooftop Cooling Coil will be in on time. That's what I get for paying attention to things I order, sheesh. Oh well. Minor Setback.

    -DragonFyreGT aka Nate
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  13. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    So last month I was in the middle of drilling the holes for my cooling coils when my incredibly cheap from china pin vise bit broke. So I figured rather than buy a new bit I'd just buy a Twist Vise instead with proper bits so my drill worked a bit better and i could start getting parts installed I have to finish the cooling coils but for now the horns are installed:
    [​IMG]

    Headlight lens are not installed yet and as of next month the dash is FINALLY going to get a slew of parts including air tank and the raidator part I need to finish the back of it. As for now my F9-Au (my code for the T4 emissions rebuild for these units) has the cal scale 3 chime Nathan M3RT1. There is only a sound file from esu for the standard M3 but close comparasions of them are pretty similar. Dash 9 is getting a Leslie RS3L next month. Also props to Stewart because if you notice....drill templates for the cab grab irons.... This will make life a bit easier. Getting there. Anyways I'll be back as soon as the coils are installed.

    Nate aka DragonFyreGT
    -Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  14. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

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    Nice back at it.
     
  15. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

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    KV models makes some neat photo etch parts for these.

    Where you can get the side by side headlight plates that that fit in the openings like BN's old F unit's had.

    Neat parts.
     
  16. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Okay I'm still alive. Here's what happened. Bed Bug Infestation most of which is almost handled so I had zero time to work on anything. I'm going to quick divei nto G-Scale super quick. My LGB Motorized Tender finally got it's hard to find lantern housing and it's painted. There. Back to HO Scale. I was cruising eBay looking for ddeals on anything, and than i saw it. The coveted Rapido Trains CN Large Type Winterization Hatches. with their grills and everything. From Canada and i got slammed with 15 dollar shipping for the both. And i don't care. Smeg, the LGB Lantern housing cost me 25 shipped. So now that those are on the way my girls are back int he shop. I need to get the cannon 36" exhaust fans so I can drill out holes on the fan board (It's a clip out part thank goodness and than I can keep drilling into the shell under it), install the fans (full set btw as these have top mounted grills), install the long type cooling coils and THAN I can glue down the hatch. Now the fans will get testors Aluminum paint first.. The housings will be black. And since the whole roof will be sprayed black, I figured that any over spray that hits the fan blades will look amazing as weathered detailing.

    Also I had issues with losing the OMI housings. Great. So as mentioned above, I was looking at KV's ironicalyl and will pick those up at a later date. Still need to finish the booster units rear (front) doorway so I can glue the diaphragm back down. Also Rapido makes Rerailers premounted on their fronts in the horizontal canadian style so I can pick those up too and one over each rear truck on the engineersside just painted yellow. We are so getting there. As for the Custom FInishing Hatches, I may save them for a later project or sell them, I don't know yet. It was my alternative before these popped up. I wonder if it has to do with the new FP's coming out. Oh well, their on the way! Photos when they arrive! Huzzah!

    -Nate aka DragonFyreGT
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  17. VinceP

    VinceP TrainBoard Member

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    Cool looking forward to more updates.
     
  18. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Okay as promised I have photos of the hatches. I'll skip the uunboxing photos as it's nothing impressive, oooo clear plastic bag with parts and a blue rapido CN/Via tab that says Rapido Bits. There I saved you the boring part. Right now my second hatch is having it's grills dry thanks to a little slow jet. The fun part was the fact that because these are designed to fit the FP9/7 models, they have tabs for them to clip into on the Rapido locomotive roofs. I don't. So I got out my tiny box cutter and cut the round tabsaway. At first I tried filing them but that took forever. The Boxcutter was faster. The grils have a slot they fit into on the sides and top of the hatches, intiidating to someone like me with low vision BUT it wasn't as hard as it seemed. Just paint a little CA Glue into the ridges and slide your grill in and let it set.Slow jet gives you 5 minutes before it starts drying thank goodness. Now the cooling coils are not installed yet and this is a mock up for test fitting purposes mostly because I have no idea where in my toolbox my pin vise bits are. I know their in there becuase my toolbox has been out in the motorcycles tent during the bed bug issue padlocked. So they didn't just get up and leave. Either way this buys me time to go and pick up my fans soo and start work on that. I also need a flat type lift ring to attach to the back of the hatches as per CN/Via Prototype, normal roof lift rings, the ATSF Interial Filter Hatch and tht part of the Roof is done aside from the Dynamic Brake Fans, HEP Exhaust Mufflers, debating on adding the chicken wire half moon spark arreestors but IIRC modernized 567 series engines don't have that issue or need for them, and since my prime mover is the 567d3, I think I should be okay without them. Amazing how a simple 5 dollar pin ise makes the hobby so much easier. Anyways I've babbled on enough, here's a photo. Enjoy.

    [​IMG]

    -Nate aka DragonFyreGT
    Blackwolf Mountain Owner/Operator
     
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  19. DragonFyreGT

    DragonFyreGT TrainBoard Member

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    Happy New Year. It's been quiet around the engine yards as things kinda got a bit fincially strapped. But 2019 is a new year and out of the gate the F9u's are ready to be worked on yet again. This time with some underframe work. And something else i'm going to be doing that may make some peoplecringe but hear me out. To explain this we need to delove over to a side project of mine.

    As many of you know or don't know, Gundam Modeling is huge. the mostcommon sizes being 1/144th scale. I had an idea to build a few to stick on my layout as a mock battle on opposite sides of the track to act as somthign different but whimsical. Now there's a lot of ways to do gundam models. THey are molded in the correct colors but mine is being repainted and I chose to do rattle can painting versus airbrushing as I Don't own an airbrush. What I've learned is being applied to the model railroading. I have parts that turned out great with al ayer of Tamiya primer and a licensed Gundam Blue. This now takes us back to The Blackwolf Mountain. Painting and colors. The scheme is being switched up a bit. I test painted the Rapido Amtrak Heritage Blue and did not like the final color pigment results. In all fairness it's gret paint and it's licensed and this is no ill will or negativity against Jason and his team at Rpaido Trains. It is just me disliking my own personal choice.

    So what I did is choose to do my blue in that MS Zeta Blue paint I mentioned earlier and my blackwill be a Tamiya semi-gloss Lacquer. In fact both paitns are lacquer based and from my experience with them, they finish nicely. Only problem is they will needa glosscote on the blue to do the decal work since it's a bit flat and than a satin topcote for a little sheen. But lets talk about rattle cans. I feel like it gets a bad wrap because you can horribly mess it up. But the same is true with airbrushing too. I have found that both techniques share similar steps to ensure a wonderful product. I've also found that using Tamiya and Testors over standard railroad colors gives me a wider choice to work with. Some things will be brushed on, like my PollyScale (or Badger Modelflex when the time comes) Reefer White or the stripes and filling in the gap below my nose details (The B&M's weren't as high as mine will be so I have to paint in that section). I guess I chose a method for me that's comfortable nd I Know I'm quite skilled at. I also did somthing to make it easier as well and that's the affore mentioned paint stick clamps and the holder.

    Now we get to the fuel tank project portion. Details West FT-315 for both Locomotives. The black boxes that cover the motor screws have beencut so the fuel tank portion is on it's own (the battery box dieaset will be milled flat for the hi-tech details air tank kits) and will have the extension skirts glued on and painted the Tamiya Semi-Gloss Black. Than I'm going to use my PollySale SIgnal Red to fill in the fuel gaugelevels. As for the skirts. I am deskirting the fuel tank section on my units asper Western Pacific Prototype as i think it's a cleaner look. And as long as this paint is here, the Dash 9-44CW will have her under frame painted in the same black and be prepped for her air tank kits next month. I had t take a break and do some practice and being that the gundam conversion kit (it uses the original models skeleton) cost over 64 dollars from Japan, it was a good learning curve to not make mistakes. Now I Feel a bit more confident dealing with my units knowing I can custom paint them myself and only have otr ely on someone else or my complex wiring.

    I'm going to have before and after shots of the entire process, I I was going to make a short video, but my cellphone tripod stand still isn't in so that will wait til the battery boxes (On my shiny new cutting mat my gf sent me for xmas). So hopefully we'l get some work done on these units, get them painted and install the parts little by little.

    SO until parts show up later in the week.
    -Nate aka SNowball aka DragonFyreGT
    Blackwolf Mountain & Ash Valley Garden Railroad Owner/Operator
     
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  20. BoxcabE50

    BoxcabE50 HOn30 & N Scales Staff Member TrainBoard Supporter

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    Slow progress, but progress nonetheless. Can't wait to see these F's all painted. I am a big fan of blue, and your choice sounds great.
     

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