Doing what Kato should have done...

[Tudor]

The gentleman that provided pictures, and the option to fine tune Kato #4 turnouts did an awesome job, with good pictures. However, doing his tune to my Kato #4 switches was the best thing that I have done to my layout to help it run flawlessly. Here are my pictures of that fix for the #4s, and I highly recommend it to anyone using them. I tore out my #4s and some of the track to re-do the power feeds. I HATE Kato's power feed set up. For me, they just make the track not line up smooth, and you can tell were every feed is because the locomotives jerk everytime it passes over one. So, I just tore them out, and did it my way. I will have to do this in a two or three posts due to picture limitations in each post. So, I will start off with the Turnout tune..


One thing he didn't mention, is HOW the heck he got a file down into the rails with enough bite to actually file the notch for the points to set in. He may have also done it this way, but just didn't mention it. I found that if you apply firm, controlled, even pressure on the other end of the rail to file, the rail will pop loose, and you can slide it along it's groves out enough to get to the area to file. I found it easy to do, and be sure you mark where the points lay before you push the rail out, so you will know exactly where you need to file.


Note my marks where the points lay. This is where I will file the notch.


This is how I hold the rail to file to provide ample support to the rail as I file. You do NOT want to bend, or tweak your rail for obvious reasons.. Now filing, you are very close to the file, and I actually use my finger nail as a guide to get the file started. Of course, that does wonders for your manicure, but oh well, priorities...


Completed notch. Now, just carefully push the rail back through the guides until it "snaps" back into position. VERY careful doing this to keep from bending your rail. Keep in mind, it is now filed slightly thinner, and not as rigid right there so it is easy to bend and kink it at the file area if you are not careful. Not a "big" problem, but well worth keeping in mind when pushing it back in place. Support the rail well until it gets in place.

[Tudor]

Here is the rail back in position. It actually makes a "snap" when it gets back seated where it is supposed to be. Now all you keen eyed people out there will instantly notice that this is not the same rail or side in the above pictures. No, this was on the other rail, but it is at the same point of the operation as the above pictures..


Points seat nicely into the rail.


This might be a good place to also mention that I also "sharpened" the actual points. It is very blunt and squared edge. If you run a file over that point tip to taper it slightly, it helps in the wheel transition as it passed over the points.

The first one I did, my locomotives that used to have issues with derailing over these turnouts now flow over them like it was ice. Very smooth, in all directions.... I love this fix...

Now, onto fixing that stupid Kato Unitrack feed issue I had..

[Tudor]

Like mentioned above, I just do not like the Kato power connectors for the track. I have never gotten them to line up right.. I see the locomotive jump, and with a "knock" as it went over the feeds like it was going over a speed bump.. Quick fix..

I took all those kato feeds and threw them as far as I could throw them.. Actually, I didn't. I just took them off the track, yanked the wires, and snapped the solder joint off the connector, making it just a regular Unitrack joiner. I think those solder jobs Kato did sucked anyway.. Very brittle, and just came off way too easy.. Every one I took off, was a cold solder joint.

Anyway... All I do then, was choose the section of track that I want to convert into a feed track section. Yank it, flip it over, choose where I want to place my feeds. Drill small hole just large enough for the stripped, tinned wire end to stick through. I stagger the holes, just so it isn't the same on each side bringing more attention to it. Strip about 1/2" of wire. Twist it to make it as narrow as it can be, and straight. Tin the wire. Then, flip the track over to the rail side. Flux the outside of the rail near your drilled hole. Make sure you flux it, because if you do, it cleans, heats quickly and the solder flows quickly, cleanly and fluid like. You dont want to linger here with the heat. Get in, get out... Touch the iron tip to the rail for about 1 second, touch your solder to it, and get out. Your rail is tinned. Stick the tinned wire end through the hole from the bottom, bend it and lay it into the groove of the outside of the track. Touch the iron to the rail and wire again for a second. Heat, melt and get out. Don't blow on your solder to cool. That creates a cold solder joint, which has always been one of my pet peaves... Trim the wire, and tuck it in as close as you can to the rail.






This is on both sides of your track section. Like I said, i stagger them so it isn't SO obvious they are there.. Sure, now there is a nice shinny silver eyesore on your beloved Unitrack. I personally don't see that as a problem, because it is invisable to the my trains as they move over them. Drill a hole near it in the layout to get under the layout, then camoflage like you normally do. As an added note, I weather my trains, and track as many of you do. When you paint your rails the solder joint all but turns invisable. I paint my rails, and they are barely noticeable. After you do the weathering, ballasting, and other debri and landscaping, it is easy to hide these solder feeds... Actually, I paint mine to look like track side debri. Just be creative. Enjoy..

[subwayaz]

Thanks much Tudor, very well done Tutorial and I can see how it will be quite useful for us Unitrak users. I will be looking into my #4 Turnouts. I haven't had an problems with the Feeders on my layout but will make a note of your info for future reference.

Much appreciate your time and effort.

[Flash Blackman]

Originally Posted by Tudor

Points seat nicely into the rail.

Now that just has to be a smoother operation than before. I presume the other size turnouts do not require this mod? Thanks. A very nice tutorial, too.

[Carolina Northern]

Tutor,

Nice pictures of the turnout mod. I haven't put an of my #4's in yet, so they'll get the treatment before they go down.

The power feed issue, I'd take one step further. I followed Powersteamguy's advice and placed a feed on EVERY piece of track - don't worry about joiners going back or paint in them.

The way I do these, is turn them over and with a sharp pair of dykes, cut the plastic web at one point on each rail. Then I solder the feeder to the bottom of the rail. Yes, lots of flux helps.
These joins are totaly invisible and plenty strong.

If this isn't clear, let me know and I'll try to post some pictures of the procedure tomorrow night.

Don

[SleeperN06]

Great post! I almost past it by but I’m so glad looked. Thanks for sharing.
I just bought some #6 turnouts when I really could have used a #4, but was afraid of troubles.

[traintodd]

Tudor,
That is a very, very nice job on those turnouts. I didn't do quite that much machining on mine, I just put a little bit of a notch in the rails with a jewelers file, but that is a great job on your number 4's. You know, you might could start a little business modifying them for other folks....

Seriously, on the feeder thing, I know powersteam recommends a feeder on every piece of track, and I'm sure that works great, but I am just too lazy for that, and I saw another post that recommended every 4-5 feet with Unitrack. Anyway I tried it, and it works just fine. I used the Kato feeders, got a good deal from an lhs on a bunch of them he had, wired em up every 3-5 feet and on both sides of all my turnouts, and I am not having any trouble with voltage drops at all. The acid test for me is that my Zephyr does the short circuit serenade everywhere I put a quarter on the track.

I think the kato track and connectors have much lower resistance than other brands of track. I know that when I put a VOM between about 6 feet of track, I only got a about a 1/2 ohm of resistance, which was only about .2 ohm more than the resistance across one section of 210mm track. Not really a very exact test, but good enough to convice me that I could space out the feeders a little bit. I also think since we are only drawing about 1/4-1/2 amp at 12 volts depending on how many locomotives you are running at the same time, voltage drop is not as dramatic for us as it is for HO or larger scales.

Anyway, something to think about before you solder all those feeders.

Todd

[Tudor]

From what I understand, the #6 turnouts dont have the derailment issues that the #4 is notorious for, so it may not be needed for the others, only the #4. People that use #6's might want to chime in on that.

I had thought about doing what you did with cutting one of the webbing inbetween and soldering totally under the section, but just thought that might be a pain. But as an afterthought, might not be any more pain then my method.

I don't do every section with a feed, but every 4-6 feet, and on each side of a turnout. I make sure there is ample power on each leg of a turnout so you never have to pull power "through" the turnout. I just think the delicate connections inside the turnout will last longer not having to carry much of a load as your trains power through them.

Thanks guys..

[Grey One]

I used the John Sing method to "fix" my #4s.

Since my vision and soldering skills are questionable I like the "Friction Fit" method:
Remove the rail joiner
Insert the exposed leads into the rail joiner slot
Replace the rail joiner

There is a "How To" with photos someplace on trainboard with a much better description. I'll see if I can find it.

By the way: Thank you for an outstanding presentation. I am sure it will be very helpful.