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#11
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turnout - frog
Next step – frog! I sanded the two frog rails with my sanding disk. Then I soldered the diverging rail with two spots. I checked the correct place with two (!) gauges, for standard and for narrow gauge.
![]() ![]() ![]() If everything is all right, the second frog rail will be soldered. ![]() Wolfgang |
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#12
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Next step are the wing rails and closure rails with points. To simulate hinged points I cut the top of the rail with a fine saw and notched the base of the rail. This way you have ONE rail with no electric problems but with the look of hinged points.
![]() ![]() The points are sanded also with my sanding disk. ![]()
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#13
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![]() with the wing rails already in place you length the closure-point rails suitable. ![]() I’ve added the second wing rail to the frog part. Next step soldering the narrow gauge rail. But at first again like the other rail I sanded the base of the rail at the point area. ![]()
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#14
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Now I added the second closure rail / point rail part. Soldering the three guard rails was the last step. Be careful to use the NMRA gauge for the correct distances!
![]() This is the – for now – finished turnout. BTW, I had no narrow gauge NMRA gauge, I’ve ordered one. So I made my own gauge, in this pic the small brass part. ![]() Next part: throw bar You can simple solder the points to another PC board tie. But I wanted another solution, with more prototype look. Wolfgang |
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#15
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Throw bar
There’re different ways to make a throw bar.
A simple way you use a PC board tie and solder the points. You can use the PROTO:87 throw bar like I did with my turnout at Diamond Valley. I choose another way, an idea I had realised already decades ago. It’s a little bit more work but will give good results. At first I drilled 0,5 mm holes. These holes you need with the PROTO87 throw bars too. ![]() ![]() Under the turnout there’s another piece of PC board, here’s an old one: ![]()
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#16
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This piece will be the “throw bar” and glides under the turnout. For better gliding I used a pencil. Graphit is good. You see the two notches. These notches parte the two rails. Without you will get a short!
![]() Two pieces of 0,5 mm wire are placed through the holes in the points... ![]() And soldered at the “throw bar”. ![]() This is what my points looks now.
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#17
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And now what I’ve learned form the PROTO7 throw bar. A small piece of paper, soaked with white glue is bent over the wires.
![]() Next day, when the paper is dry and hard you can cut the paper down to the wire. And the turnout ready for installation. ![]() ![]() Wolfgang |
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#18
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Don’t forget to make a cut at each tie. Otherwise you will get a short!
![]() And painted... ![]()
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#19
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... and the rail heads cleaned
![]() ![]() ![]() Now I can build the segments and install this turnout and others. Wolfgang |
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#20
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All this is way beyond me, but it looks great! Congrats on a top job.
Mike |
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