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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Falcon, Colorado
    Posts
    1,238
    my policy is. when i have Kadees. replace em when i can. However i do have a few cars with factory couplers because the coupler boxes are too fragile and past cars I've had have been a PAIN to replace. (Athearn genesis cars and Walthers kits that have snap on coupler covers, they always seem to snap off more then intended.).
    Modeling Santa Fe circa the 70's on the La Junta Sub.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2001
    Location
    Tucson, AZ, 85719
    Age
    32
    Posts
    1,254
    The "True to proto" folks are now in euphoria over the Sargent Couplers, which are exact to scale and as youc an guess, operate true to scale. which means tight curves and other things like that become even more difficult!!

    The Kadee is roughly half in price and other than being a little over sized, which kadee appears to be working on with the 158s and such, they work near flawlessly.

    Kadee will only be overcome when someone can offer something better at only a marginal increase in price - it hasn't happened yet!!!

  3. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny View Post
    The "True to proto" folks are now in euphoria over the Sargent Couplers, which are exact to scale and as you can guess, operate true to scale.
    The Kadee is roughly half in price and other than being a little over sized, which kadee appears to be working on with the 158s and such, they work near flawlessly.
    I've got a few pair of sergents to test out. They look good and seem to work ok so far, but some of my cars are old metal athearns which is a problem because the magnetic wand sticks to them and moves them when trying to uncouple. I think KD's are actually easier to use with an uncoupling pick but the sergents lack of knucle spring looks better and their knuckles look neat when a car is left with them open waiting to be recoupled later. They are expensive but I figure I'll just buy half as many cars as I would have and come out ahead. I might just go with KD #58's and 78's but I won't know until I do more tests.....dave

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2001
    Location
    Cheshire, UK
    Age
    62
    Posts
    1,787
    I've tried the Sargents as well. They are very nice, but strictly manual operation only (with the wand).

    The problem I found was the lack of self-centering. It's very prototypical, but, combined with the small size of the couplers, unless you can look down pretty much on top of the cars it is hard to ensure the couplers are going to mate when they hit. Since I can't get a higher view than about 30-45 deg above horizontal on most of my layout I decided to stick with #158 Kadees.
    Mike

    Website

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Oregon
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,132

    Kadee ONLY!

    Kadee ONLY here. There is nothing that is as reliable as Kadee couplers if installed correctly.
    I bought the Walthers Empire Builder a couple of years ago and have a fifteen car train. The EB cars came with some kind of imposter couplers and the train was parting all the time. A trip to the car shop and Kadee couplers replaced the imposters. The parting problem was solved.
    Moral of the story is: If you want excellent operation then go with Kadee's installed properly.
    All other couplers go in the trash as they are substandard.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Mar 2000
    Location
    Wild and Wonderful West Virginia
    Age
    28
    Posts
    2,710
    Blog Entries
    9
    I've tried the imitators such as McHenry, which I found to be weak and flimsy, and the plastic "spring" tended to wear out quickly. The Accumates seemed to be alright, but sometime they would bind up and wouldn't close during a coupling, or they wouldn't uncouple easily. I have been a faithful Kadee user for over 10 years, nothing enters service on the Gulf & Ohio Midland without metal wheels, properly adjusted Kadees and modified for appropriate weight.
    Pat M.
    Carolina, Chicopee & Central Illinois
    "The Chicopee Road"
    http://cccirr.blogspot.com

    E-Passes now available, let's trade!

  7. #37
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Sheridan View Post
    Since I can't get a higher view than about 30-45 deg above horizontal on most of my layout I decided to stick with #158 Kadees.
    Hi Mike, I ordered some KD 158 's to test them. I'll see if they look good enough and if they are easier to use than sergents. The HO layout I'm planning is small so I don't mind detailing the cars more but I do want it to operate without much fuss. Do you have any experience with more scale like wheels ? I'm thinking about using code 88 intermountain wheels, NWSL code 72, or proto87 wheels but again I want ease of operation along with good looks. Regards, Dave Branum

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Germany
    Age
    68
    Posts
    3,816
    Blog Entries
    83
    Quote Originally Posted by ctxm View Post
    Hi Mike, I ordered some KD 158 's to test them. I'll see if they look good enough and if they are easier to use than sergents. The HO layout I'm planning is small so I don't mind detailing the cars more but I do want it to operate without much fuss. Do you have any experience with more scale like wheels ? I'm thinking about using code 88 intermountain wheels, NWSL code 72, or proto87 wheels but again I want ease of operation along with good looks. Regards, Dave Branum
    This is another case. If you go to smaller wheels, smaller flanges you have to look at a few points. With code 88 you can even build better looking turnouts. Here at FREMO we have a group H0-fine which follows these RPs.


    There's also a group FREMO:87 , with modules!

    Wolfgang
    Pueblo & Salt Lake RR

    Westport Terminal RR Just in time - and safe

    :camera: RailImages Wolfgang :computer: my Blog

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    North Georgia
    Age
    39
    Posts
    880
    Blog Entries
    7
    Well I perfer the Kadee and now all I buy is the 58 unless I need something else for a specific cause. I also from time to time have purchased the McHenery couplers. Specifically the new versions of the lock tight coupler. My thing is as long as there is a centering spring and is of good quality, I will get it and use it. If it ever fails on me and its something other than a Kadee, it will get replaced with a Kadee coupler.

  10. #40
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfgang Dudler View Post
    With code 88 you can even build better looking turnouts.
    Hi Wolfgang, I measured the back to back distance for the code 88 intermountain wheels and it looks the same as regular HO wheels so I don't see how much more accurate switches could be built with them? Code 72 wheels have smaller flanges so they should allow better track fidelity and P87 would be just about perfectly to scale but I'm not sure I want to work to those tolerances....dave

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