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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Falls Church,Va
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,492

    Steam Traction Tires

    It has been years since I have installed a set of traction tires on a steamer, in fact so long I can't remember when I last did. And it was and is still a @#$%. However got them on but have a shimmy going down the track which I assume is that one or more of the little tires didn't expand over the wheels evenly leaving one spot a little thicker than the rest. Any other tricks in the book other than heating the tires?

  2. #2

    Steam Traction Tires

    I'm a newbie but I had good results using this stuff called Bullfrog Snot on the drive wheels last year.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    St. Johns, Oregon
    Posts
    7,583
    Blog Entries
    6
    I use Bullfrog Snot as I find it far less aggravating. In fact, when I did a GS-4 swap with another TrainBoarder a year or so ago I took the traction tires off another GS-4 I have and sent them to him as well as an extra.
    Secret Compliance Ninja *** Visit Portland Area N-Trak. *** Visit Logging and Mining Fans and Modelers.
    (GIFs courtesy of David Epling)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Falls Church,Va
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,492
    I'm aware of the Bullfrog Snot and have a bottle setting on my workbench. However in the application I'm doing The traction tires are a better option for me.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Mississippi Gulf Coast, USA
    Age
    79
    Posts
    8,105
    John, I installed TTs on Kato Mikes years ago and initially had similar wobbles.

    The problem is that the TT cross-sections are square, as are the corresponding slots in the wheels. When the TTs are installed by hand, their rubber-like flexibility and tight fit in the slots sometimes cause them to seat at slight angles, though only in one or two places around the rim, thus causing wobbling.

    I solved it by placing the engine in a V cradle, inserting the tip of a very thin dental pick between the TT and slot, then having the wheels rotate very slowly at the lowest possible voltage setting, I use DC. After about two revolutions, the tires had seated correctly into their slots. Make sure your dental pick tip, or whatever tool you use, is very clean and polished. Otherwise it will snag the TT, pulling it off the rim, possibly even snapping it. No need to heat or use any other drastic methods...good luck.
    Hank....I may have to Grow Old, but I Never have to Grow UP!!!


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    western new york
    Age
    60
    Posts
    182
    As above.
    I used a sewing needle.
    Very thin,polished,and nothing sharp exept the point.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Falls Church,Va
    Age
    68
    Posts
    4,492
    Gentlemen all, thanks for the advice. I did solve my problem using both heat and the very fine point dental pick to get the tires stretched and set properly. Since it was those danged 4-4-0s I was working on I simply threw the driver set slipped out of the loco in a sink of hot tap water. Let set for awhile and then quickly threw them back in the loco and resecured the bottom plate and piston rods. The heat causes the tire material to become more flexible and the metal wheels continued to hold the heat for a bit while I rotated the tires on the loco in the cradle. with the dental pick. By the way this is 130 deg. F. water out of the tap, not stovetop or microwave heated water.

    I finally remembered what I used to do back ages ago, but only later after the tires were on and the rods re-attached. I used to put the traction tires in a container of very hot tap water prior to slipping them on the tires. Made them stretch better and once on the tires as they cooled they contracted tightly on the tires. Plus the slight dampness acted like a lubricant. So far my use of the Bullfrog has been a mixed bag of results in this particular application. Probably because of the very tight clearances involved with those wheel fenders. On a normal driver setup it probably works a lot better.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Mississippi Gulf Coast, USA
    Age
    79
    Posts
    8,105
    Glad to hear, John. I had forgotten that I also dampened the tire/wheel interface, less risk of breakage that way.
    Now all I, and many others, need is a TT for the MP 4-4-0 slippery little beasty.
    Hank....I may have to Grow Old, but I Never have to Grow UP!!!


  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2003
    Location
    western new york
    Age
    60
    Posts
    182
    Quote Originally Posted by Hytec View Post
    Glad to hear, John. I had forgotten that I also dampened the tire/wheel interface, less risk of breakage that way.
    Now all I, and many others, need is a TT for the MP 4-4-0 slippery little beasty.
    I used the TT driver set from their Pacific on mine.
    Works great; if you can still get them?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Location
    Mississippi Gulf Coast, USA
    Age
    79
    Posts
    8,105
    Quote Originally Posted by kiasutha View Post
    I used the TT driver set from their Pacific on mine.
    Works great; if you can still get them?
    Is the 4-6-2 driver the same diameter as the 4-4-0 driver? If so, that would be the best solution...thanks.
    Hank....I may have to Grow Old, but I Never have to Grow UP!!!


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