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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Loveland, Oh
    Age
    46
    Posts
    2,925
    Step one - Find a newer northern. That appears to be one of the older versions or something that somebody has modified. If it is not at least the split frame version, I wouldn't put too much effort into this one. The older versions were notorious for the gears failing. The most recent versions are split frame and have blackened drivers.

    Step two - You will need to remove the wiper wires completely from the drawbar or make a new drawbar. The drawbar post on the Bachmann Santafe Northern is metal and the two wipers from the tender are electrically live and will short out the track when they contact the post. I think you probably want to make a new drawbar to get the right spacing between the tender and the loco as well as make sure the drawbar height is correct. Soldering two wires is the only way to do it right but don't solder to the truck pickups. It will cause the trucks to be stiff and more than likely result in derailments. Pull the shell off the tender and you can use the connections inside the tender to make your connections.

    Tony Hines

    New Railimages Album: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages...r/4676/cat/500
    Abraham Lincoln - "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

  2. #12
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Sagle Id by the BN tracks
    Age
    65
    Posts
    938
    Thanks Tony, I realised that where I had soldered them would not work and got brave enuf to take the tender apart and will solder to the rivet for the spring tabs . I have some 26 gauge silicon wire comming to do the wiring as it flexs' very nicely . I can make the repairs for the axles if need be...
    Paul
    Last edited by paperkite; December 17th, 2012 at 09:22 PM.



    " Do not regret growing older. It is a privilege denied to many " -unknown
    John 14:6
    Let's trade Train Passes -
    Thanks to SLSF Freak (Mike) for a GREAT avatar !


  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Falls Church,Va
    Age
    69
    Posts
    4,721
    Quote Originally Posted by paperkite View Post
    Thanks Tony, I realised that where I had soldered them would not work and got brave enuf to take the tender apart and will solder to the rivet for the spring tabs . I have some 26 gauge silicon wire comming to do the wiring as it flexs' very nicely . only problem is finding the coupling for the rear .... John recommended 1029-1030 but I cannot fine that from Micro-Trains .. I keep looking !!!
    That was supposed to be 1129 or 1130 which are T shank and fit the Bman coupler box with the supplied adapter, the 1128 is also a T shank but it is probably too short.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Sagle Id by the BN tracks
    Age
    65
    Posts
    938
    Ah ha got it !



    " Do not regret growing older. It is a privilege denied to many " -unknown
    John 14:6
    Let's trade Train Passes -
    Thanks to SLSF Freak (Mike) for a GREAT avatar !


  5. #15
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Loveland, Oh
    Age
    46
    Posts
    2,925
    DO NOT SOLDER TO THE RIVETS.

    The 6 pin plug coming out of the top of the lightboard has everything you need. The two outer most plugs are left and right rail pickup. The next in from each side are motor outputs and the middle two are headlight output. They are marked on the circuit board. If you get real ambitious, you can hook up all those wires to the loco and make it decoder ready for a little extra work. I have been slowly doing this and soldering a connector (1.27mm pin spacing if I remember correctly) too make as many tenders as possible universally swapable.
    Tony Hines

    New Railimages Album: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages...r/4676/cat/500
    Abraham Lincoln - "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

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