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  1. #131
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Big Bear Lake, CA
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    65
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    6,126
    You can cut the nubbins off and attach the two pieces of Unitrack just like you would Atlas, flex or sectional track. I will cut a section of Unitrack down to fit, install rail joiners a little CA and I'm good to go. I do it all the time.

    Of course that's the first place...oh, I've hollered about that enough. Need a hump yard I can tell you how to set one up...not LSL (laughing so loud).

    I do like the way the penney yard is turning out. I want one.
    RickH

    If you look long enough, you are bound to find a prototype for what you desire to model on your layout.
    BarstowRick.com
    Rick “BarstowRick” Howland - Google+
    Rick's YouTube

  2. #132
    Join Date
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    Livin on the Rim of the Wht Mtns, Az
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    Thnxs Rick...

    I may give that a try too. IF I can find that box that has all them old regular track joiners in it...LMAO !!
    George...Proud owner and operator of : T.H.E.R.R.
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
    Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.

  3. #133
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    South Central Kentucky
    Age
    61
    Posts
    1,637
    Hi George.

    Did some homework for you using info from Kato's website and your info on the gap (5/8 inch 15.875 mm). I calculated on the 4 longest straight lengths.


    Replace
    With
    Need about
    64 mm 1-Adjustable 79.875 mm
    124 mm 1-45.5 mm + 1-Adjustable 139.875 mm
    186 mm 2-Adjustable or 1-64 mm + 1-45.5 mm + 1-Adjustable 201.875 mm
    248 mm 1-124 mm + 1-45.5 mm + 1-Adjustable 263.875 mm

    The Adjustable's range is 78 - 108 mm

    Gary
    N Scale the Normal Scale© Greenbriar Delta & Rutland web site So many projects, so little time, The GD&R on TrainBoard. My other interests.

  4. #134
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Union City, California, United States
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    59
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtntrainman View Post
    Yuppers...got that page of Fifers bookmarked :-)

    The only problem...the plastic needs to be cut just behind the cross web underneath. I tried it twice...and the pieces where so small at the web...they just snapped. I am thinking of taking the busted 'outside' pieces and just sliding them in from the outside and glueing them in the gap...just before ballast goes in ;-)
    Take a longer piece, and cut that down, replacing a couple sections, rather than trying to make just a small piece. Another idea is also to think "outside the box", or in this case the yard. What you can do is shorten one of the tracks leading into the beginning of the yard (one end only), which then lengthens the yard by the (approx) half inch. You would need to adjust all the yard tracks, and I can't tell from your overview shots exactly where your gap(s) are.

    Could you create a schematic layout of the yard, showing which track sections you are using? I could see if I can come up with non-surgical solutions. I have found that using combinations of the 29mm, 47mm, 60mm, 62mm and 64mm pieces, I have always been able to solve an issue (though it took time for two of them). Besides my bridge, I only have one expandable track on the layout, and I did that on purpose (did have it solved with smaller track), and the only surgical track I did using Mike's technique was for my trestle.
    Thanks,

    Rick Brodzinsky

    the JACALAR thread on TrainBoard


  5. #135
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Caution: Construction Zone !!



    I wired the first sets of terminal blocks in for the feeders yesterday. I wired in feeder tracks that I got in a lot purchase of Unitrack months ago. So one area of the layout...before and after the double xover leading thru Lucky Penny Yard is done. The Unitrack feeder tracks didnt have the wires so I had to open them up and hardwire the drop feeds.

    Its a good thing I am using termnal blocks. I found I wired one feeder track backwards and simply swapped the wires at the block (you can see the red and black wire swap in the pic) and everything is fine :-)

    One drop down panel down...about 20 to go !

    Note to Self: Go online and find the 12 position barrier terminal blocks (CHEAP)...8 position blocks from Radio Shack aint gonna cut it...LOL !!
    George...Proud owner and operator of : T.H.E.R.R.
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
    Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.

  6. #136
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Union City, California, United States
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtntrainman View Post
    Caution: Construction Zone !!


    Its a good thing I am using termnal blocks. I found I wired one feeder track backwards and simply swapped the wires at the block (you can see the red and black wire swap in the pic) and everything is fine :-)
    Don't forget to put a note or something next to that panel on why there is one set of reversed colors! In case you ever have to disconnect and reconnect. Of course, since your track isn't fixed down yet, why not just turn that one feeder section around?
    Thanks,

    Rick Brodzinsky

    the JACALAR thread on TrainBoard


  7. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBrodzinsky View Post
    Of course, since your track isn't fixed down yet, why not just turn that one feeder section around?
    Yup ;-)

    Just wanted to make sure it was all goona work first...lol. Now that it does...I'll just flip that track :-) AND ...of course the wiring.
    George...Proud owner and operator of : T.H.E.R.R.
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
    Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.

  8. #138
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBrodzinsky View Post
    Take a longer piece, and cut that down, replacing a couple sections, rather than trying to make just a small piece. Another idea is also to think "outside the box", or in this case the yard. What you can do is shorten one of the tracks leading into the beginning of the yard (one end only), which then lengthens the yard by the (approx) half inch. You would need to adjust all the yard tracks, and I can't tell from your overview shots exactly where your gap(s) are.

    Could you create a schematic layout of the yard, showing which track sections you are using? I could see if I can come up with non-surgical solutions. I have found that using combinations of the 29mm, 47mm, 60mm, 62mm and 64mm pieces, I have always been able to solve an issue (though it took time for two of them). Besides my bridge, I only have one expandable track on the layout, and I did that on purpose (did have it solved with smaller track), and the only surgical track I did using Mike's technique was for my trestle.

    Rick...

    Here is what I have:

    Starting after the dbl xover on the post above...I have:

    (1)...2 7/16 straight

    (1) #6 right turnout

    There are (10)...9 3/4 straights on the straight leg of the turnout thru on both mains to the other end.

    On the diverging leg of tyhe right turnout there are...

    (4)...#6 left turnouts up the diverging leg of the yard:

    Starting at first leg off main and connecting deverging routes of each turnout thru to turnout at other end:

    1st turnout....(8)...9 3/4" and one 5" straight.

    2nd turnout...(7) 9 3/4 straights and that odd 5/8" section.

    3rd turnout...(5) 9 3/4 straights...(1) 1 1/8 piece and (1) 4 7/8...(didnt have a 6 inch straight left...lol)

    4th turnout...(4) 9 3/4 and (1) 1 3/4

    The outside is just a curve into straights.

    The other side of the yard is identical.

    Hope that makes sense...it did when I typed it :-S
    Last edited by mtntrainman; August 29th, 2012 at 07:23 PM. Reason: CRS
    George...Proud owner and operator of : T.H.E.R.R.
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
    Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.

  9. #139
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Union City, California, United States
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    59
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    2,713
    George,

    Here's a quick AnyRail layout, following the description above (which doesn't quite match your photos). The part numbers are shown and the full yard uses this parts list:

    Track & Objects
    20000, N Kato Unitrack 20000. Straight 248mm. 48
    20010, N Kato Unitrack 20010. Straight 186mm. 6
    20030, N Kato Unitrack 20030. Straight 64mm. 34
    20040, N Kato Unitrack 20040. Straight 62mm. 8
    20091A, N Kato Unitrack 20091A(20-070). Straight 45.5mm. 8
    20091B, N Kato Unitrack 20091B(20-071). Straight 29mm. 2
    20150, N Kato Unitrack 20150. Curve radius 718mm, angle 15º 4
    20202, N Kato Unitrack 20202. Left turnout 186mm. (remote) 10
    20203, N Kato Unitrack 20203. Right turnout 186mm. (remote) 10
    20210, N Kato Unitrack 20210. Double crossover 310mm. 15º 2
    TrainBoard Attached Thumbnails TrainBoard Attached Thumbnails LuckyPennyYard.jpg  
    Thanks,

    Rick Brodzinsky

    the JACALAR thread on TrainBoard


  10. #140
    Join Date
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    The only thing I see is...you only have 9 straights on the mains thru the yard...I have 10. I dont know how much difference that will make on the other yard lines...hmmmmmm
    George...Proud owner and operator of : T.H.E.R.R.
    There is a fine line between "Hobby" and "Mental Illness"
    Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.

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