Thread: Close-coupling Kato F units
June 20th, 2010, 03:09 AM #1
Close-coupling Kato F units
Just a few photos of some experimenting I've been doing to improve the coupling distance of Kato F units:
I'll post more info and photos if anyone is interested. The new couplers are Kato dummies, and the diaphragms are improvised using some off-the-shelf Kato parts and a fabric "filler." Total cost for a B unit is less than $3 and an A unit is under a buck and a half.
June 20th, 2010, 03:13 AM #2
I'm interested! That looks great!
June 20th, 2010, 06:12 AM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Kent, Washington, United States
- Blog Entries
I was looking at a pair of Kato F7s last night and thinking that the coupling distance seemed redicoulous. I wish I'd seen this last night though, because I just placed an order with Kato, and I probably could have thrown in some of those dummy couplers.
June 20th, 2010, 06:30 AM #4
Is that Kato part #923090 ??? Also, do the roof points bump each other when the slack runs in like they do with short shank unimate's?
June 20th, 2010, 10:14 AM #5
Can you post some pictures of these "Kato dummy" couplers? Do you have a part number?
Modeling the Santa Fe's 'Peavine Line' from Ash Fork AZ to Phoenix AZ in the 50's/60's
June 20th, 2010, 10:52 AM #6
Great improvement, I wasn't aware of the Kato part you mentioned
I had installed Unimates on my F3 A + B's but I like what you've done..especially with the foam block.
Great stuff - thanks for posting :thumbs_up:Steve
"rivet counting, yeah right - I was never good at maths anyway......."
My D&RGW images & stuff...
June 20th, 2010, 11:54 AM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2000
- Sugar Land, Texas, United States
- Blog Entries
Close Coupling Knuckle Coupler (Truck Mount), 8 ea N-Scale / Fits: BethGonRussell Straw, Sugar Land Route
June 20th, 2010, 11:56 AM #8
I've just put some American Limited diaphragms on my F units. I am very interested in your method and techniques.
For close coupling on kato F units, I have used the Micro Trains conversion on one and a Unimate dummy coupler on the other facing unit. IIRC, the correct prototype spacing between the car bodies is four feet.
 That Russell Straw has parts for everything! :thumbs_up:
Please support Trainboard's advertisers. Order from a banner add today!
Visit My RailImages Album
June 20th, 2010, 02:28 PM #9
June 20th, 2010, 04:36 PM #10
The diaphragms are just Kato CZ parts that have had the mounting "ears" snipped down a bit, but not removed entirely (the remaining nubs make positioning on the locomotive easier). They are glued on using Krystal Klear, which seams like it could be removed later if so desired. The final addition is a piece of fabric that I found with my wife at a fabric store. It is grey automotive headliner and consists of a smooth grey surface with small ribs on one side and a black foam backing on the other. I folded it over so that there is a continuous grey surface with a rounded top and glued the two sides together. The result is a flexible, foam filled piece with a smooth grey surface on both sides and the top. Then I just trimmed it to fit with scissors and slipped it between the two engines prior to coupling. If it is examined under magnification it probably won't look very good, but I'm looking for a cheap, non-invasive way to add working diaphragms to passenger consists and this is a first attempt. Without the reduction of coupling distance, this wouldn't work. I bought a lifetime supply of this fabric for $1.06, so it is essentially free.
By Scott Teague in forum HO ScaleReplies: 15Last Post: July 30th, 2009, 11:18 PM
By AB&CRRone in forum DCC & ElectronicsReplies: 2Last Post: March 28th, 2008, 01:37 AM
By Flash Blackman in forum How ToReplies: 0Last Post: February 19th, 2008, 01:11 AM
By SecretWeapon in forum The Inspection PitReplies: 25Last Post: April 29th, 2006, 11:49 PM
By Kitbash in forum HO ScaleReplies: 4Last Post: April 12th, 2002, 06:38 PM