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  1. #1
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    Tram/Trolley Tracks, how do you make them?

    I'm trying to make a Tram layout and need to know how members here make their Tram/Trolley tracks with inserts in the middle of the tracks for roads?
    What materials do you use and if you could post photos that would be a great help. Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Check around, Kato is making tram sets in Japan that have street trackage..
    Art in Iowa
    Modeling something...
    http://adventuresinmodeling.blogspot.com/

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply, but I've already have laid down the flex track and the release for the Kato tram track won't be for awhile.

  4. #4
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    In that case, stryene would be one option. Do you have a copy of John Pryke's book?

    http://www.kalmbachstore.com/12204.html

    Well worth having for reference. He covers techniques on street trackage as well as city modeling.
    Art in Iowa
    Modeling something...
    http://adventuresinmodeling.blogspot.com/

  5. #5
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    If you're an experienced enough modeler, perhaps "handlay" your track and pave over it with your desired street-paving material. Streetcar track has much tighter curves than mainline track, and so you're free to model those kinds of curves with your own track. Even the ties of commercial flextrack will get in the way.
    Metro Red LineUnder the streets of Los AngelesCheck out my N scale layout blog!

  6. #6
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    ArtinCa thanks for the link to the book.
    Here is what I've done as 2 tests to make the Trolley tracks using Lite Spackle. The 1st test covers the inside and outer side of the rails. The 2nd test just the outside. I'm considering the 2nd test with styrene sheets cut to fill in the middle of the rails.
    TrainBoard Attached Thumbnails TrainBoard Attached Thumbnails Tram track test 1.jpg   Tram track test 2.jpg   Tram track test 3.jpg   Tram track test 4.jpg   Tram track test 5.jpg  


  7. #7
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    I think either would work. The only trick with the plaster in between is carving the flangeways. But the stryene would make that alot easier.

    Since I mentioned the I had to dig mine out (no easy task!:tb-biggrin and have a look at how he did his streets. His are done with .020" poster board on the outsides of the reals and stryene on the insides, supported with strip wood. One thing he mentions is that the poster board expands and contract with moisture, so it may or not be a good idea. But stryene used for both with work.
    Art in Iowa
    Modeling something...
    http://adventuresinmodeling.blogspot.com/

  8. #8
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    If you've got straight street sections, its a snap with styrene. Here is one with I did with styrene layers and .020" styrene brick.



    And one I'm doing next.



    BTW, .060" x .25" strips fit perfect inside of the rails.
    Greg Amer
    Locomotive Engineer (EN05 564) - Stacy Yard

    THE INDUSTRIAL LEAD
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  9. #9
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    gpa - Thanks for the photos they look great!
    I am a little leery about using the lite Spackle between the rail, and I'm leaning now to the styrene inserts. Where did you get the styrene sheets and stripes that you used?

  10. #10
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    I use light weight spackle all the time for grade crossings. Sometimes I will use wooden ties to edge the rails, sometimes just spackle.

    The lightweight spackle cuts and carves easy enough. It is not hard at all to cut the flangeways. If you have to do quite a few of them, I would probably create a jig out of a couple of x-acto blades to make sure you get them uniform.

    These are on my son's 3x3 layout. We just did them this past weekend and have not dressed them up yet but it should give you the idea...





    I haven't been brave enough to do a turnout yet but it can be done with the same technique. Just make sure it works flawless before you "cement" it into the road.

    The trick to the spackle is to pre tint it before you apply it. I mix up small 1 pint tubs with a little black and a touch of brown paint to get the grey color I want. This way the road is the same color all the way through. For the grade crossings I applied it thick so it completely covered the rails then after it was dry, sanded it back down to rail height. When the rails were exposed, then I cut the flangeways with an X-axcto knife. These were done free hand, just eyeballing the spacing I needed. Another option is use the NMRA gauge to scrape the top of the pavement to give you a guide as to where to cut the flangeways.
    Tony Hines

    New Railimages Album: http://www.trainboard.com/railimages...r/4676/cat/500
    Abraham Lincoln - "Better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt."

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