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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Milwaukee Road 355 GP38-2 Project

    I got the most significant part of the this project completed this evening. The frame chop.

    The Milwaukee Road GP38-2s had a VERY SMALL fuel tank. So, in order to model one accurately, the fuel tank MUST be cut down to the correct size. The Milwaukee reduced fuel capacity on many of it's locomotives throughout it's epic history. I have read in several publications that it was to reduce the overall weight of the locomotives and thus lessening damage to the rails, which in many sub-divisions and branch lines, were often in disrepair.

    Here is a good prototype shot showing how SMALL the fuel tanks actually were:

    This is not the prototype that I am modeling.

    Here is the original Athearn BB GP38-2 that I purchased used:


    And here she is after the frame chop:
    Bob N7CZ



  2. #2
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    Milwaukee Road 255 GP38-2 PROJECT (cont)

    Below are a couple shots of the frame while in process:



    One last major difference on the Milwaukee Road's GP38-2s were the trucks. Milwaukee had Blomberg type B trucks. The trucks were salvaged from retired F units in a cost saving move by the railroad. Most GP38-2s came with Blomberg type M trucks.

    Click here for my build album.
    Bob N7CZ



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
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    Northwest Montana
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    Remember where they were initially assigned? The first batch's assignment was the NMD!

    :D

    Boxcab E50
    **********
    Books & More For Sale: http://www.train-orders.com/RLD/RLD.html N Scale For Sale: http://www.train-orders.com/NFS.html


    Railroadiana, RR photos & more- Please visit my TRAIN ORDERS web site!
    "If it ain't broke, you're not trying!" "The handyman's secret weapon- Duct Tape!" (Red Green)
    - (#1,10,11,15)-
    (GEC-ES #12, 18, 25, 51, 55, 64, 67 ,68, 79, 89, 90, 93, 110, 119, 127, 132, 136, 138, 144)
    Do you issue Model Railroad passes? Let's trade!

  4. #4
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    I didn't know that, Ken! Thanks!
    Bob N7CZ



  5. #5
    Gotta love the "welder in the cab" light on the Athearns....
    Can't wait to see how this turns out...

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    haha... yeah, they rocked that way....

    Well, I just found the prototype photo I am going to work from as a weathering guide.

    Photo credit information: GP-38 355 - Bensenville IL - 08/78 - {Jim Ford Photo}

    I am not sure if the date of this photo is actually 1978 or not as the herald and billboard lettering are missing from the unit. However it has the newer style cut bars which would indicate late 1970's. Looking at photos of this unit in the early 1980s, it appears to have received new paint around 1981, along with many of the GP38-2s.

    I will most likely model it with the billboard and I have to have the herald on it too. :D
    Bob N7CZ



  7. #7
    I'm wondering...I don't know how you finish your paint..but do you think a little white mixed into some dullcoat would yield the bleached out look of the real thing without repainting the orange?

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    I will be doing a complete repaint. I'll prime it with a cream undercoat over the entire orange area. Then in the places where you see the orange appears to be darker, or less faded, I'll airbrush a light coating of a darker color of primer, perhaps a an additional layer of orange, then apply a custom mixed faded orange overall to achieve something close to the fading pattern on this bad boy.
    Bob N7CZ



  9. #9
    I'll be watching this build, you do nice work.
    I'm going to take one of my BB Geeps and outfit it for switching duty, that being an ernst gear reduction set, full detail parts and some severe rusty weathering....
    You still haven't divulged your crusty rust secret....

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Wow, thanks for that complement! I'm just have'n fun with my modeling. This time around going for quality over quantity. 180 degrees from when I modeled 10+ years ago.

    At this time, I use the same materials for all weathering. Those are acrylic paints and pastel chalks. I am going to be trying oil paints and Gouache eventually as the the Gouache works better for streaks and runs.

    If you have a specific rust on one of my models that you'd like me to explain further, I'd be happy to. The exact techniques depends on he rust itself.

    Make sure you post a build tread of your project so we can follow your progress.
    Bob N7CZ



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