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View Full Version : How To: Glue Delrin Plastics


daniel_leavitt2000
September 23rd, 2007, 06:57 PM
MR showed a new type of supper glue that adhered to delrin. anyone know what the name was?

Flash Blackman
September 23rd, 2007, 08:10 PM
Cool Chem? (http://www.coolchem.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=splash&CFID=8312766&CFTOKEN=88983154)

mavrick0
September 23rd, 2007, 08:27 PM
Would it be the new All plastics glue from Loctite. I read about it on the MR forums just haven't found any to actually try yet.

Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Product Detail (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=17&subid=40&plid=661)

fieromike
September 23rd, 2007, 10:04 PM
MR showed a new type of supper glue that adhered to delern. anyone know what the name was?

Cyanopoxy?

Mike

farish
September 23rd, 2007, 11:36 PM
here is a site that might help:

Cyanopoxy Testimonials (http://www.mrhobby.com/CyanopoxyTestimonials.html)

This stuff is great, I used for creating a gluing block made of a brass tube glued to a ceramic tile.

The stuff is distributed by a firm title "bsi" in Atascadero, CA.

I hope that helps

AB&CRRone
September 24th, 2007, 02:31 AM
I bought a bottle of Dr. Mike's that is supposed to glue Delrin but haven't tried it yet.

http://www.drmikesglue.com/index.html

Ben

Tony Burzio
September 24th, 2007, 05:31 AM
adhered to delrin.

Off track:

I read an article that the problem with painting delrin isn't the plastic per se, but the mold release. The author recommended that a bath for 3 hours in 91% alcohol removes the mold release but does not harm the plastic, allowing normal paint to stick.

Now, we need a guinea pig. Anyone have a left over broken railing that has been replaced with a new railing to try this out without harming a good engine railing? I wonder if this is also the problem with glues?

JASON
September 24th, 2007, 07:42 AM
Off track:


Now, we need a guinea pig. Anyone have a left over broken railing that has been replaced with a new railing to try this out without harming a good engine railing? I wonder if this is also the problem with glues?

I'll confirm this one,have just (nearly) finished 12 Ktao SD40-2's.
Did the soak in 98% alco (over 24hour period) ,have painted hand rails & no peeling paint yet/

rs-27
September 24th, 2007, 08:46 AM
Off track:

I read an article that the problem with painting delrin isn't the plastic per se, but the mold release. The author recommended that a bath for 3 hours in 91% alcohol removes the mold release but does not harm the plastic, allowing normal paint to stick.

A: It's NOT the mold release. Delrin (and related) plastic is the problem.

B: Re: Soaking in 91% isopropyl. I wanted to remove paint from Kato SD40 rail and walks. Admittedly, they (5 unavailable parts) were there for days. After cleaning the paint residudes, I was unhappy to see they no longer fit the sills, having expanded about a hundredth inch in length. Luckilly after a week or so they shrunk back to size with no permanent distortion.

C: Paint is a more continous film and will stay in place if not disturbed too much and isn't comparable to mechanically holding a joint together.

Now, we need a guinea pig. Anyone have a left over broken railing that has been replaced with a new railing to try this out without harming a good engine railing? I wonder if this is also the problem with glues?

OK. Cyanopoxy by CoolChem is purported to work. I would have bought some except for the price and additional shipping. I did buy LocTite's commercial primer (#706? and associated CA locally) Of course, before I had the reason to use it, they announced a retail version.

The LocTite part # is 01-82565, containing the primer and small tube of CA. IIRC, about $5 at WallyWorld.

Please note no guinea pigs were harmed in anyway during my test. A couple of sections of handrails from an Atlas/Kato GP35 were used instead.

The railings had been cut with a Xuron cutter, so the ends were squared off with #320 wet/dry paper. Note: the cap for the activator pulls off, don't unscrew or the whole thing will open up. The applicator looks like a whiteboard marker but is quite hard.

The primer was applied to the .020" x .020" ends and allowed to dry. A small drop of the CA was put onto the vinyl packaging and one end of the handrail was touched to it (just the very end). It was pressed to the other handrail end and held for about 15 sec and one end released. It was self supporting. I typed the above and went back to the railings.

I tugged the walkways (they were not glued together) and watched the flexing of the stanchions. I then pulled directly on the railings and the joint did fail in tension.

Since the cross section area was .0004sq in and Eastman 910 claimed lifting a ton with a 1 sq inch joint in tension, a .8# pull sounds about right.

Repairing a broken handrail will still be iffy (if not careful), but if splicing to lengthen for a kitbash, allow about .060" extra and scrape the face and back to make a lap joint.

Bob in IDaho, who has a really, really small spring scale that one of my tennants left behind... Hmmm, must have been doing catch and release on tropical fish. :tb-rolleyes::tb-tongue:

chartsmalm
September 24th, 2007, 02:41 PM
Would it be the new All plastics glue from Loctite. I read about it on the MR forums just haven't found any to actually try yet.

Loctite Consumer Retail Products | Product Detail (http://www.loctiteproducts.com/products/detail.asp?catid=17&subid=40&plid=661)


I just checked Home Depot website. They say it's in their stores at 3.18 for 2G.

Tony Burzio
September 24th, 2007, 03:35 PM
A: It's NOT the mold release. Delrin (and related) plastic is the problem.

Hmmm... Somethin' doesn't fit. The railings were unaffected, but didn't say if you painted or glued them after they reset to the original size. We do have one new data point, that after a few days isopropyl will expand delrin slightly.
Time to put the guinea pig back in the cage! Squeak! :we2-jiggy:

r_i_straw
September 24th, 2007, 05:22 PM
A while back I ordered the Cool Chem sample kit and played around with it. In my clumsy unscientific tests, I could not detect much difference in performance from the cheep CA I pick up at the Dollar store. For painting Delrin parts I usually hose them down with my airbrush type grit plaster that I bought from Micromart. Shooting the parts with baking soda gives everything a nice satin finish that seems to let the paint adhere better. I wash the parts off with water first to dissolve and baking soda stuck in any tight spots.