Sectional Track - Need Help

[Gabriel]

Due to current finances, im limited to a second hand supply of sectional track at the moment. I have a decent place I can get a variety of used stuff cheap. All I have is 18" radius 9" strait, somes shorter pieces and a couple Atlas snap-switches both brass and nickle.

In order to get this old stuff somewhat smooth I have had to resort to stapling each corner or the tracks (staple across two ties holds it quiet well) to try and cut down on derailments.

Any advice on how to make this stuff work for now would be great.

Thanks Yall

[watash]

Some of the older plastic tie strips with brass rail would "take a set" after not being used for a time, like having been piled into a box for long-time storage.

We found each section could usually be straightened out by carefully heating the section with a hair drier until the plastic just begins to get soft, then quickly lay the section on a hard flat surface and place a phone book or other heavy weight on it to hold it flat until it cools.

You will of course have to straighten out any bent rails first.

To mount on the layout:
Stapling on the outer ends of a pair of ties spaced apart every 5 or 6 ties along the length of sections, and at joints, will usually work better than using the nail in the center. This only works well if the staple enters wood such as Tru-Scale sub-roadbed (the one without the ties), or soft Pine, Poplar, Aspen, or similar woods. Like the thin slats found on cheese boxes, fruit crates etc.

Don't try to staple thru the plastic tie!

Tacker staples might work, but my guess would be they would damage the tie strip. Again, straddle the ties!
I have not personally tried using a Tacker for this, but a common Swingline paper stapler works well.

The track is easily salvaged later if need be.

If you are "iffy" the staples can be painted so they aren't as noticeable to the cranky nit-pickers that like to point out any flaws they can find with your layout. (A knuckle sandwich works wonders too!) :D

Remember to sweat solder each joint for good electrical conductivity.

[ 16. September 2004, 09:33: Message edited by: watash ]

[disisme]

If your really keen, and this is good practice anyway, use pins to hold the track down on both sides of every 15th tie, NOT in the center.... So your pins go outside the rails, every 15th tie. Of course, you can put them closer together if you want, but thats a lot of pins smile.gif

[Gabriel]

Im 18 gauge 1/2" nails, couldnt find anything smaller, and frankly my big hand couldnt work with smaller.

The biggest problem I am having is at track joints getting the rails strait and level.

Its proving rather interesting trying to get nails close enough to the joint to work and not bust those stupid end ties. That what I get foring buying second hand Tyco I guess graemlins/226.gif

P.S. Turns out one of my friends here in town is into trains, O gauge. Looks like were gonna be competing for the best layout...lol

P.S.S. Any tips for soldering? I havent gotten the hang of it yet graemlins/226.gif

Just for good measure: graemlins/226.gif

[ 21. September 2004, 15:05: Message edited by: Gabriel ]

[ak-milw]

Clean each joint with a small wire brush, use flux and low heat solder!! graemlins/220.gif

[Gabriel]

I've got 60/40 rosin core 1.0mm solder is that good for use with track?

Ive tried it guess theres just a learning curve too. I finally got to where I could install feeder wire on the opposite side of the layout which has made the train run better.

What about expansion with soldered joints? SHould I do every other one or just the curves? Most of my problems are in the curves.

I am also having pretty good luck with the nail like disisme suggested. Again, learning curve.

Thanks

[BoxcabE50]

As long as you follow previous suggestions to prep the joint, that solder should do the job just fine.

If you find a need for expansion gaps at joints, if at all avoidable, do not have them on any curved trackage. One way that I allow for any expansion, is to leave my switches unsoldered. Which also allows easy change out, should there ever be a problem.

:D

Boxcab E50

[Gabriel]

SHould I use the connectors that come with the track or just line it up and solder it?

Looks like im tearing track up again tommorrow evening...lol

ILl get this right someday! smile.gif :cool:

[ 22. September 2004, 05:52: Message edited by: Gabriel ]

[disisme]

Gabriel, use the track joiners unless you've got some magic way of holding the 2 rails together without it getting in the way of your soldering iron tip! You 'could' get away with just using 1, I guess, but I wouldnt trust my it. You only have to give one rail a little touch with the tip of the iron to potentially knock it out of alignment...the joiners will prevent that.

Yeah, they look horrible, but are you counting rivets, or running trains?

[Mark_Athay]

Soldering suggestions:

Use a HOT iron. A 100 watt soldering gun is not over-powered.

Clean the track down to shiny metal. Use a small wire brush on a Dremel or something. You can also use fine sand paper to clean it.

Use paste flux. Don't depend on the flux in the solder to do the job, as it doesn't hit the metal until AFTER you've tried to solder the track. Acid flux is often discouraged, but it's FANTASTIC as long as you're willing to clean the rail afterwards. Acid flux does a beter job on dirty track than rosin flux. Rosin flux is used mainly in electronics work where cleaning is not really possible afterwards.

Use new rail joiners. Don't try and re-use the old ones, as their corroded inside and you'll be hard pressed to get them to solder.

1. Flux the cleaned rail & joiners and put them together.
2. Heat up the iron.
3. Melt a bit of solder on the iron tip.
4. Put the iron tip on the inside of the rail at the joiner while adding just a little more solder.
5. Remove the iron immediately after the solder flows into the joiner. If you wait too long you'll melt the plastic rail ties!
6. Don't try to fill the joiner or have a puddle of solder along the track. It takes very little solder to do the job.

Soldering is easy, it just takes a little practice.

Mark in Utah

[Gabriel]

Thanks.

All ive got right now is a cheap 30 watt from walmart.

The tool cache is still being added too

[ 23. September 2004, 19:30: Message edited by: Gabriel ]