Some pictures of my steam (Works in Progress)

[7600EM_1]

Everyone,
Here's a few pictures of my works in progress. 2 steamers, custom built from pre-existing loco's that are old "tender powered" TYCO 0-8-0's and or 2-8-0's, that I have modified.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0WgDSAgYd10sL3*6FT7*3SFup1L93RO8tSdtbwnV0nqoplDkO3 lLzs9BnfEcI7dbSGmbsuavSrHiUKWsKhc4ETWQwm!VgV8AMxHL tjpuHknr1qMPw*xMOFLWEXVqr9t4ADo9Qx!2jjyw/0660_Under_Construction.jpg?dc=4675428685229826499

This is the boiler bottom to my 0-6-6-0, biult from 2 TYCO 0-8-0's or 2 TYCO 2-8-0's or one of each, with the boiler bottoms of each loco butted together to form one long frame, I had saved the firebox section of the one boiler bottom to extend the firebox on the 0-6-6-0, to have a close to prototypical length firebox. This picture shows the added sections to the firebox, an the joint between the boiler sections.

This boiler bottom as I call it will be mounted to a solid brass boiler, flatened on the bottom, and cored to fit to this, as a frame to mount the motor too with the engine sets mounted to it. In the picture, you can see the 2 engine sets setting their to be mounted (more of them to come).

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Another picture, showing the boiler bottom an the 2 sets of engines, to show length....With one side of the firebox not yet completed, (that is now completed at this time). The front set of engines needing a set of cylinders, and all the valve gear, where as the rear set has its cylinders, an all its valve gear.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0WwD2AtgcMkoL3*6FT7*3SFup1L93RO8tSdtbwnV0nqq!VcU*r D0WqF5zNSDCHlxFU!8TyhDSq77KYl6Z5Oqd3*Y!CkJesNRRmVK !XUTvUyyXdSjBULrQbyY6eRQXY8XFdQPG!E6yaak/0660_Under_Construction2.JPG?dc=467542868532529725 9

Showing top of engines, and very bottom of the boiler bottom. The 2 holes cut vertically will be the channel cut in the boiler bottom for the gearing from the rear engine set to the front engine set. And showing the joints in the firebox.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VgDSAgAbkaV8dm0sjzIjI3Xg9JfUcqf*aHJoQPet82FabRLJR Fuql17RtlKLUzX897WqfWoMxJq3oUVqr6IZsH8FzLaJt*s5mwt HgFLt!*kuP0aRIcBkRHp7sh1qcrH2/0660_Boiler_Bottom1.jpg?dc=4675428849289909894

Showing the top side of the boiler bottom, an boiler walkways, an the glue jount between the 2 boiler bottoms made into one.

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Showing the boiler bottom from front to back, nearest the top of this picture notice the hole, this was the original "drawbar" mount, which will be cut out, the sides strengthened, to acomodate the motor, it will set in this locoation, somewhat like a Mantua, or Bowser loco, which this loco once the gearing is done, will have Bowser Challenger type gearing, with the use of my own axle gears, an my own worm gears, on the Bowser shaft an bearing work.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VgD**wIbFaZ8dm0sjzIjI3Xg9JfUcqf*OvHWSippiSPQIfDWO K2P5XxWN46wDViykuNLdVSYYeparSHmJoa2B9c8fapiqPl*pY3 sUFQPo1S8A2x9dgrIzCts!ferJKx1/0660_Boiler_Bottom3.jpg?dc=4675428849351402691

Close up of the jointing in lengthening the firebox. And the TYCO factory cut slots for what was a "puffer" smoke unit that had a cam on the axle, to opperate the working "puff" smoke unit as the engine was run, these holes were for the operating bar for this, that will be used to align the boiler bottom for the gearing shaft work.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UADqAp4YoeWA9En5ErgMIOCBWSWOm603!l4hrSlOcBHEGX2kJ aJJtt!RAUXEU7lkz55syHOlGFM867H6NyLmi7RVyS*rfVO7Afp KmJtY!0ZUOgkRjQBJo3SC2CkAcNgp/0660_Firebox1.jpg?dc=4675428849391419060

Close up of the firebox plating that is now shaped an ready for further modifications. I used .020 thickness plastic sheets to give the firebox sides a more even appearance, and to join the 2 firebox sections together, you can see the uncut version of the firebox to the right an the new added length piece to the left, with the joint between the two, on the bottom of the firebox.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0UADdAp8Y4!WA9En5ErgMIMC2OeN8e!PxSjFbzyZuQPoHpD*fo IuRhg0rjJV3JjO48YHRKhCCjlHzg6Xr5A41A2Rase5FJyXzVqT PluIkGF0dp3iNGIy613SCaRcAcGkX/0660_Firebox2.jpg?dc=4675428849415550413

Showing the opposide side of the firebox, thats been spliced, shaped an completed. This is how the other side will look, its currently completed as far as this, both sides are done, I haven't done much to this loco since these pictures were taken.

[7600EM_1]

Now for the pictures of the engine beds as they were made.

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Showing the front engine set, without cylinders (that currently has cylinders) and not valve gear (which again, now has valve gear). I had taken the TYCO frame, measured it out evenly to the rear an cut off the rear most driver bearing channel to make the frame a 0-6-0 frame. Then cut down the bottom axle retaining plate, an the top plate with the driver springs. Pulled the 3rd driver apart to press fit a custom fitted gear, seen between the frame from the hole in the frame that was to leave the smoke "puffing" unit operation arm come to the cam unit on the driver axle, I used this hole for the gearing. No modifications were needed for this gearing, just a basic pull, press the gear on, then quarter an press the driver back onto the axle after the gear was centered on the axle. The front of the engine frame was un-modified for mounting of the loco's pilot for when that time comes.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VQAGA44ayIGA9En5ErgMIFb!lHQ9CUf0SHIoak8iuPiUH20Mh DHUa1u5eY86eZ9U3ggmuzcyEPb2CD5XhtbkLPmObU7eC1pR6i1 2xRXVEWmRbeiJj4fzK3enSd2om53F/0660_Front_Engine2.jpg?dc=4675428849466803690

Showing the rear location of the front engine set, where I had cut off the rear drivr of the 0-8-0 frame, an mounted the retailing plates to the cast frame. Also showing the extra wide gear, that just fits into the hole of the frame as described above. The very end of this section has gotten a 00-90 thread machine screw to hold the retainer plates parallel to the cast frame, an to keep presure on the retainer plates to hole the rear most, or 3rd axle an drivers in place.

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Showing the under side of the engine set, with retainer plate in place. I plan to modify this slightly to have a bell housing to go around the gear, to keep it from picking up dust an dirt that could be between the rails, and to keep oils an grease inside the frame where its needed an not dropping or dripping everywhere.... This is why one side of the hole for the gear has been enlarged, the other side has also been done as well.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VADqAg4aiFm!UxAstjax3oeP17q1wIjIzH4l*7bCjAqhSYTSh 75ULWuvrAVECUvTzoZiob8SJbsWm0JNf60GI8Y02nlWmmxZtzj AlwvXPQq4cKpoYCr3pZEnTgCl*5r5/0660_Rear_Engine1.jpg?dc=4675428849537570434

Showing the rear engine set. The front of the engine bed had been cut off to fit to the front engine set, like a Rivarossi articulated, or Bowser articulated. The rear most axle channel still exists that has been milled out to do away with this, an make the frame resemble the rear most frame section of the 0-6-6-0. So this axle journal no longer exists. The very flat spot on the engine bed to the left is where the motor will be mounted. The cylinders are shown, modified, with the valve gear in place, that will have a valve gear hanger modification as well, I need to fit a bushing in the dead center, as a "carrier" bearing, to get the end of that shaft up to the cylinders, to then make a knuckle to go to the shaft of the front set of engine for its gearing. The holes in the frame of this engine set will be one for the drawbar mount, an one to mount the motor with.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VADSAg8aylm!UxAstjax3oeP17q1wIjI*mfCx8llVYTKHauEm OLq6oY7e!iGpMCO7v3Gtrzk2B85DEfkYD*42tURe4lJSHSdZDF r9jZTjAZN0UWY9qSe3mNh7i*az6aR/0660_Rear_Engine2.jpg?dc=4675428849582090156

The underside of the rear engine set, showing the 4th axle journal that will be milled off, to the depth of the drawbar mounting hole with its recess. The cylinders still need the face plate glued to them, but that won't come till both cylinder parts are painted, being I have to install the crosshead guides before they're glued together. Also notice, the 2 screws, one on each end of the gearing through the bottom retainer plate, these will also serve as the mounts for the bell housing to go around the gear.

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A close up of the rear most section of the rear engine set, this is was the original axle jornal from TYCO for the 4th axle, that will be milled down to the recess an leve to the frame with the drawbar. You can see the factory TYCO drawbar recess to the right. Thats the depth the frame will be milled down to so the entire frame in this location will be flush.

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A close up of where the motor will be mounted. There will be a peice of .060 of an inch brass sheet cut to make a mount from, bent to an angle to mount the motor too, then have a hole of .070 of an inch drilled into it at the hole locations in the cast frame then taped for a 2-56 thread machine screw to mount the motor an the motor mount to the cast engine bed. Mantua type flex shafts "tubbing" will be used to transfer the motor movement from the motor shaft, to the worm gear shaft, an then more of this same tubbing used to make a knuckle coupling shaft between worm shafts, for the articulation of the engine sets. The rear engine set, will be used as they were on the real engines, as the main boiler support. So will be mounted rigid to the boiler, an only the front engine do the articulating.

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A colse up of the front of the rear engine set, showing the cylinders, an where I had cut off the original front of the engine bed. And the modified center sectin of the cylinders which was the cylinder throat that was a factory boiler mount from TYCO, that has been used to just mount the cylinders to the engine bed. This square hole will later be filled with epoxy, with the 2-56 thread screw set into the epoxy before it cures, to secure it, then a small pilot hole will be center drilled through the bolt an then step drilled up to .070 of an inch to be taped all the way through for a 2-56 thread machine screw.

[7600EM_1]

And now for a change, another TYCO "tender powered" modification. That I'm building. A 0-1-0, from a TYCO 0-8-, or a 2-8-0 frame with an added axle from the parts left over from cutting the front engine bed down from my 0-6-6-0. (I save everything like this, just in case, an this is one of those "just in case" senerio's!) I didn't have to cut up another full TYCO loco to make this to have for another project, later on.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TQAAANMWCGZDBjl!48IQLF0zNmWrILjExl1C0K!Hujd6SBxNZ j5OC52xdnNleLodNt2RGChpVlrxKw!2MLWiliXzGaU7*0f!Ecc 4e34lzZMFThi8DA00dQ/TYCO_0100a.JPG?dc=4675428686027942774

Showing the engine bed made, with motor mounted, with 10 drivers! 5 axles! Thats my own shops exclusive can motor an my own gearing an worm gear as well. Notice the brass plating, this is what I used to mount the extra axle journal to the existing engine bed. The engine is currently without valve gear, altho I have a crosshead and valve gear hanger for this loco. Which I have yet to add this all an buy the valve gear for on this loco, which will be either Mantua valve gear thats modified to fit an work, or Bowser valve gear modified to fit an work.

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Showing the original TYCO boiler setting on my modified frame, I left the rear most section of the engine bed run out past the cab wildly to then chop flush when the time comes. However, I plan to lengthen the boiler bottom, for the frame slightly (It needs an extra 1/4th inch added, an then I plan to turn a custom boiler from brass stock on the lathe, thats flatened on the bottom an cored for the motor to fit up inside near the back of the boiler close to the cab.

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Up close of motor an gearing. The brass plate that goes under the motor is part of the motor mount an frame plate to align the added engine bed section to make it a 0-10-0. This also shows the original cylinders, which will be used!

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Side view of the engine, notice the top an bottom side of the brass plating... Close up's of both under side an top side will be shown!

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Showing the under side brass retainer plate. I had to custom make this to fit the extra wheel base length to hold the rear most 5th axle in place, an to hold the extra added engine bed as well so that its true with the rest of the engine bed to keep the 5th driver from binding when operating. Again I left the rear most section of these plates as well as the engine bed run out wildly to then go back an trim it down flush with the cab once everything is in place.

http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TQAAADgX8n5DBjl!48IQLIr0f*8VCeJICd!axhW6a3pigHvOb Mq2*uC0h3pR1ZHOqujymFZctsDZrVjeZom4Fafpar3ezrpEDwF LJ5!nHOfH9olusI*!tA/TYCO_0100f.jpg?dc=4675428849722047233

Showing front of the motor, an its mount, with the gearing all adjusted to run. Notice the custom made worm gear an its width plus its course teeth, the axle gear has the same course teeth as well. But most HO scale gearing has finer teeth. I used the cutting tool for making these gears as I readily had it. I would assume that the coursness of the teeth would last longer, being stronger an won't grind off after years of use.

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A close up of the course gearing, with side, (I made the worm gear wider in diameter, as the axle gear is wider in thickness. Not much of a chance of mis-alignment like this. So, the 2 gears don't grind each others teeth up like the smaller an finner teeth gearing does.

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Showing the rear of the motor and how its mounted. The small thin brass strip is soldered to the engine bed top retainer plate, with an adjustment screw underneath the motor, in combination of the brass strip that comes up around the rear of the can motor, an the presure from the screw, keeps the motor from vibrating, and eventually getting misaligned with the gearing up in the front. The screw also adjusts the gear mesh as well.

[Coaltrain]

That is some cool steam stuff John. How are you going to join the frames of the articulated? And what kind of drive shaft set up are you going to use?

I am working on getting that dome casting of the I2. I will post some pictures after Christmas.

p.s. I saw your finished stuff, looks very good. Was that B&O engine the SP cab forward turn around?

[7600EM_1]

Jeff,
You ever seen how Rivarossi or Bowser joines the frames of their articulateds? If so, you got the main idea, I'll use one way or the other, Not sure which yet tho! As I said in the past, these 2 projects were put on the back burner for now (to much in my shop to do for customers, so mine has to wait). I'll have a drawbar type thing between the 2 frames, part of that drawbar on the rear of the front engine an the other end of the drawbar on the front of the rear engine, I don't know if I'm going to spring load it or not... I may, I haven't decided yet.

As for the I-2 dome, You make a mold of it, what would you charge me for a dome? I'm going to be in need of one in the future!

As for my B&O Articulated, your meaning my EM-1 I suppose, NOPE thats a customized Rivarossi Big Boy, that is on the way to be torn down, an I have Cab Forwards to turn an makin into a more prototypical Yellowstone, an make it B&O And then all the Big Boys I messed with, I'm going to restore them, an possibly sell them! (I'm not sure what will happen to them all) I may only sell them to cover costs of parts to do all the Cab Forwards conversions, I have stock piled.... And if worst comes to worse (I hate selling my steamers, speicallly the big ones), I may sell them to cover costs of my parts needed for my current Mantua loco's in detail parts. I have 2 Pacifics to custom detail, one Mikado, an then one PRR I-1 thats going to become my Western Maryland I-2, (Which is why I need an I-2 dome), an then to get the detail kit an parts for my MDC Shay, thats a 3 truck that is going to become a 4 truck, an be Western Maryland #5. UNLESS I can figure out a way to build that 3 truck heavier to look an resemble the Western Maryland #6 being the #6 is in the top 3 favorite steam engines for me. My first favorite is the B&O EM-1, then the Western Maryland M-2, an then the Western Maryland 3 truck Shay #6. (Altho, I have other favorites, I have a fleet of B&O EL-5's made from Rivarossi Y6b's an the Rivarossi factory EL-5, # 7165). But those first 3 I listed, are my ALL TIME favorites so to speak... But I litterally love all the B&O's steam, an WM Steam, I just have a big spot for the Articulated/Mallet engines.....

EDIT: I need to learn how to type an spell! :D

[ 25. December 2003, 00:03: Message edited by: 7600EM_1 ]

[dewain50]

John,
Awesome work!!!! Do you make your own gears or do you buy them commerically? I have been wanting to convert the tender-drive on a Tyco 2-8-0 to a motor in the boiler for some time but didn't know what parts to use. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks and God bless you, especially during the Christmas season.
Dean
The Train Doctor

[7600EM_1]

Dean,
Thanks for the kind comments! As for the gearing, it all depends on the needs of the item.... I may one time use gearing I have one hand from something I bought thats like an electronic toy that I tore apart for parts specifically, OR I make my own gearings, on the mill. It all depends on what I feel like getting into an just how much I want to "make" everything so to speak....

The gearing you see in these pictures, I made! the axle gearing (black gears) are made from Teflon machine plastic, an the white (worm gears) are made from Nylon plastic, with the 2 different tpyes of slippery machine plastic very little lubercation is actually needed. But STILL needed just not as much or as offen!

All you have to do really to add boiler mounted motor, is pull one driver, the one directly below the opening in the frame for the opperating puff unit, take it out of the frame by removing the retainer plate, an pulling the side rod bolts from the side rods to this driver, get the driver out, pull ONE driver wheel off the axle, to pull the cam off the axle that worked the puff unit, an then get the gear you want for the axle gear, the axle measurement is .125 of an inch, drill the gear center to .120, ream that center to .123/.124, that will give the gear a light press fit. THEN knurl the axle alittle or even mar the shaft in the DEAD CENTER of the axle an press the gear on with alittle flywheel adhesive on the marring of the axle to cure an solifiy the gear to the axle. Quarter the driver you took off an press it back onto the axle adding alittle flywheel adhesive to the axle end before you press the driver back in place. THIS had the frame work done. Reassemble the driver to the engine bed, an tighten the screws to hold it in place, then on the TOP of the engine bed frame, flatten a spot BEHIND the axle gear, file off any an all irregularities to make it flush an smooth. Them take a piece of .060 of an inch brass sheet, cut to the width of the engine bed, bend on an angle like I have it in the picture of my 0-10-0 Drill out the centers for the shafting work of the motor drill out clearance holes for the screws to mount the motor to the brass. THEN mount a worm gear to the motor shaft to match the axle gear, mar or slightly knurl the motor shaft to hold the worm without slipping, add it with alittle flywheel adhesive, an then set the motor in place on the engine bed find 2 good solid spots to drill a .935 of an inch hole to clear a 2-56 thread machine screw in the ENGINE BED ONLY! Then take an center punch and spot on the brass to drill a .070 of an inch hole to tap for the 2-56 threads, add screws an your done with mounting. THEN all you should need to do is set the worm to axle gear teeth mesh, add a THIRD .070 hole through both the engine bed frame AND the brass right under the center mark of the motor, both front to back an side to side, tap all the way through both pieces, an add a 2-56 thread machine screw to adjust tenstion on the motor for teeth mesh between gears.

HTH